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Showing posts sorted by relevance for query dual tracking. Sort by date Show all posts

Sunday, October 2, 2016

Building a Bench Tracking Dual Voltage Supply


Dual Tracking +/- 30V @ 100mA Power Supply




While I was building this supply, I added some functionality but did not update the front panel. That's why you see the pen markings to indicate the switch position for the DMM display measuring the positive supply or the negative supply, and that the Tracking switch puts the positive supply in the Master role. The "S" means separate supply adjustments.

The PWR switch is not a main power switch, but removes the voltages from the output to protect the DUT. It also allows you to set the voltages of the supply without having to take the leads away from the DUT. The switch should have "on" and "off" labels.

My Design Goals


For some of my experiments and tinkering, mostly with op-amps, I wanted to have an additional power supply that would give me precise dual-tracking complimentary voltages, up to +/- 30V.

Here are a few design goals I set for myself:

1. True 0 to +/- 30V.
2. Non tracking mode to set two different voltages for the negative and the positive supplies.
3. Precise dual tracking within 1% or better.
4. Precise Voltage level setting with 1mV accuracy
5. Accurate display of output Voltages with less than 0.01% error. (no need for an additional DMM)
6. Pretty good current limiting setting with a visual indicator. (not at a precise exact value, but good  enough because I don't want to blow-up an expensive device.)
7. Pretty good constant current/voltage operation.
8. Low noise and stability without going to extremes.
9. Small package, using the same housing as several of my other supplies and DC Load.
10. Maximum current of at least 100mA for each supply separately.
11. Using components like voltage display and transformers to be used with a drastically different design. (just in case I wanted something complete different)
12. Some protection against blowing things up and doing stupid things myself.

Using standard Regulators

For a while, I was contemplating a simple tracking LM317/337 supply, and I looked around of what designs where out there on the Web. There were surprisingly few, actually, and none fitted my bill.
Eventually, I started to piece some things together myself, but by the time I added the bells and whistles I wanted, things were getting complicated quickly.  Rather than scrapping the whole idea, I continued as a learning experience to see how far I could get this to work. In the back of my mind however, I always considered starting all over with a more traditional supply design, so I made sure most of the more expensive components could be re-used.

Here is the circuit diagram of the complete supply. Looks pretty wild when you look at it initially, but when I'll go through the building blocks it's actually not that bad. 




Let's just start with a partial diagram of the positive supply, and dive right in. 



Voltage Regulation

The output voltage is regulated and set by IC7, an LM317AHVT, which is the high voltage version of the LM317 regulator. To get a regulated 30V at the output, I need to supply several volts more. When the transformer is not loaded much, the input voltage can get to levels that are too high for the standard LM317, which is why I use the "HV" (High Voltage) version.

R28 is used in combination with R27, the 10 Turn potmeter to set the output level. R28 also makes sure that there is some minimum current flowing to keep the regulation in check. That only works well with higher output voltages, so I use a J-FET, Q5, used here as a constant current source, to ensure that the LM317 always sees an 8mA or higher current. The J-FET needs a few volt to work with, and I decided to give it -8V, because I can use that voltage level in other places as well.

The voltage adjustment setting is stabilized with C17, but that means that you also need D17, to protect the LM from the C17 discharge levels going the wrong way. To make sure that I can regulate down to 0V, I have to overcome the reference voltage of the LM317, which is 1.25V. Initially, I used a -1.25V voltage reference to create that counter-balance, but I was not too happy with how that worked. D25 and D26 in combination with the -8V will do the same and actually clamp the negative supply at the Drain of Q5 to about -1.3V. That's close enough. 

Current Regulation

Let's switch our attention to the current regulation/limiting section. IC4, yet another LM317 is used as the current limiting device. The current limiting is depending on the voltage over the current shunt resistor, R12. The 12 Ohm value will limit the current to a maximum of 104mA. To make that current start from 0mA, I used the same circuit around D13, Q2 and the negative supply of -8V to do that. The variable current limiting settings are accomplished with a normal 1 turn potmeter R17, in combination with R16, to make the potmeter effective over the complete range of at least 100mA. D11 and D12 limit that range to about 1.3V, and that creates a pretty accurate way of setting the current limit. Q2, another J-FET, also functions here as a constant current source of about 8 mA, keeping IC4 into regulation at all voltage levels.

Current Limit Indicator

To get an indication of the entering into the Current Limiting or Constant Current mode, I used the circuit with Q3 and a red LED. Q3 measures the voltage drop over the LM317, and if it goes over a certain level (> 0.6V, when the limiting gets tripped), the LED will be turned on. Simple but effective.

The Negative Supply

The negative supply is a virtual mirror image of the positive supply. If you now look at the equivalent circuit on the negative side, around IC6, an LM377T, you'll see exactly the same circuit, with the Tracking Switch S2 in the position shown. Because IC6, the LM377, does not come in a high voltage version, I had to use another LM377 (IC3) as a pre-regulator to limit the voltage going in to IC6. IC3 limits the maximum voltage of about -40V to a -36V level which is safe for the LM377 and provides plenty of regulation head-room. Using another LM377 may look like an overkill, but the 5 components (The LM377, a protection diode, two resistors and a capacitor) costs are really minimal. Yes I should have used D14 to go across all three LM377's, but that's the way the circuit developed.

Output Voltage Removal

In order to quickly (panic mode?) remove the output level of the supply, I use a switch (S3) across both the Volt Adjustment potmeters, to do that. Eliminating the voltage over the potmeters will force the LM317/337 outputs to zero volt. 

And that pretty much covers the voltage regulation parts.

Dual Voltage Tracking

OK, let's move our attention to the dual voltage tracking circuit. I used a simple method with two precisely matched 10K resistors (R29 and R31) to create a virtual ground level at the midpoint. After testing the result, I found that I still needed an adjustment trimmer R30. The virtual ground or mid-point level at the wiper goes to the inverting input of op-amp IC8, and that compares that input with the true ground. There is no current flowing so R10, the 4K7 resistor will not cause a voltage drop. The op-amp will make sure that it's output is driven such that the two inputs are equal. The output goes to the Tracking On/Off switch, and when that is flipped, it actually takes over from the potmeter setting of the negative supply, making that a Slave of the positive supply, the Master. The negative supply will now follow (track) the output level of the positive supply, also when the positive supply goes into current limiting. I have selected the TLE2141 op-amp for this job, because it can handle the supply rail voltages of -36V plus +8V = 44V.

The positive and negative outputs have C22/C23 and C18/C24 to filter unwanted noise. I kept C23/C24 as low as possible to protect for the dumping of their capacity into my precious DUT circuit. This is a significant and often overlooked factor of most power supplies. 

Some Protection

D15 for the positive supply and D14 and D5 for the negative supply are there to protect the regulators in case the output voltage is higher than the set voltage. These diodes then dump the over-voltage into the main reservoir capacitors C6 and C5. This situation can happen when there are capacitors or batteries in the DUT that want to dump their charge back into the supply. They are protection for the LM317/337 devices. D18 and D19 are protection for reverse voltages that may accidentally try to dump into the supply.

The Supporting Cast

The supporting team is made up of transformer TR1 to supply the main voltage of the supply. Initially, I used R2 in the positive rail which is a PTC to add a level of protection for over currents. They are self-healing. After using the supply for a while, I took it out of circuit by bridging it because it interrupted too early and I didn't have other values.

The main supplies are rectified with a full bridge filtered by reservoirs C6/C5 and C12/C9 to remove high frequency noise. Both R7 and R6 make sure that the reservoirs are emptied relatively quickly, so no voltages are present for very long when the mains is switched off. They will also put a minimum load on the transformer to protect for voltages that may become too high when there is no load supplied to the DUT.

To minimize the development of heat and use normal TO-92 regulators for the +/- 8volt supplies, I used a separate transformer with 9-0-9VAC at 80mA. These print transformers are relatively inexpensive and small, and the +/- 8V supplies are now independent of any voltage swings on the main supply. The filter circuits around IC1 and IC2 are text book stuff.

The Voltage Display

The last element is the voltage display. I found a module that has a real DMM "inside", is very accurate and works up to 33VSearch for: 0.36" 5-digit DC 0-33.000V Digital LED Voltage Meter

These displays typically generate a lot of switching noise that you really don't want to have injected into the power supply rails. At the same time, I wanted to use this voltmeter to measure the positive supply as well as the negative supply. Unfortunately, these meters only handle positive voltages. The solution is to switch the volt meter connections from measuring one output to the other and reverse connections. In order to do that, the power for the meter needs to be floating from the main power. So, I needed a small third transformer with 9VAC, to isolate the power rails and I could then do the input switching with S1. S1 applies the positive output voltage to the plus input and the ground to the minus input, and reverses this for the negative supply (positive input is now ground, and the input ground is now the minus output supply. Simple and effective at only the cost of a little transformer.

Tracking Mode Side-Effect

There is one caveat with a tracking supply like this one. The negative supply (Slave) tracks the positive one (the Master). If the current limiting for the positive supply kicks in, the negative supply will follow. However, when the current limit for the negative supply kicks in, the positive supply will stay at it's set level, creating an unbalanced output situation. I have not figured out a way to solve that.

Real-Life Experiences

After I finished building the supply, I have been using it for a few years now, and I'm fairly happy with it. The voltage level shown on the display is very accurate, it really acts like a good DMM, and so is the tracking accuracy which is well below 0.1%. During my experimenting, I find myself grabbing this supply more and more, even though I sometimes find the output dropping because I pull too much current from it. 

Below is a picture of the main circuit board in an earlier stage, when I was still using the 1.25V references (the SMD parts on the carriers), and without the current limit indicators. It has been modified quite a bit since then.

All parts within the dotted rectangles on the circuit diagram are mounted on the metal back-panel of the enclosure. The last addition, the third transformer for the display is mounted on the top half of the enclosure because I didn't have the room on the circuit board.

Sorry for the bad focus, but you get the idea.



Enjoy!


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Tuesday, December 9, 2025

DIY PS503A Rebuild Prototype


 This is the start of a DIY rebuild project for the Tektronix PS503A dual tracking power supply.

I once build this unit a long time ago, in the late 70's, using several original parts.



This version of the PS503A is a little strange because I can't find any information on the net about this particular unit, that uses 14-pin Fairchild 741 amplifiers, and I don't have the manual anymore. All the pictures that I could find use the more common 8-pin versions. In any case, I sold it to a collector together with all my Tektronix gear quite some time ago. Overview here.

An attempt to create my own dual supply many years later is described on my Blog here.


I'm showing this instrument because my plan is to use the same enclosure and the controls, but with a new PCB front panel. The PS503A does not have a display, but I'm going to use this one. After I build it, I made several changes to the way the display is used, hence the handwriting on the panel.  It is actually an accurate voltmeter with an LCD. I use a switch to show either the positive or the negative voltage. The switch above with the +/-V does that. The switch labeled Tracking will tie the two supplies together such that the voltage set for the positive supply will be tracked by the negative supply. This Master-Slave method is quite common, but the Tek engineers figured out a way to select separate rail voltages and use the tracking to change the set voltages by a percentage. So you can have a rail for +15V and one for -8V and change both voltages together in a relative method, by a percentage change. That's what I will use too.

Unfortunately, the above supply, that started as a study on using the standard LM317 and LM337 regulators works OK, but not great. The main drawback is that I used a transformer that only allows +/- 100mA at 30V and the current is not enough for many of my projects.


The goals for this DIY PS503A project

The goal is to build a standalone unit that can be placed close to a prototype to supply the required rail voltages. My intention is to use this supply when I'm working with Opamps that need a positive and a negative rail. 

As mentioned above, the rather special feature of the PS503A is that it not only has dual tracking, but also with two different voltages. The dual tracking in this case will supply a percentage change on both rails. More information can be found on the Tek Wiki pages here

The SG503A goes up to +/-20V and 1A, and I'm planning to see if I can increase the voltage to +/-25V, maybe not with a 1A output, but maybe half of that above 20V. A lot will depend on the transformer, it has to fit in the enclosure. With the now selected transformer I'm limited to +/-20V, just like the original, but with a maximum current of 600mA.

The challenge with the original design of the supply is that the circuit needs Opamps that with one rail goes to the output limit plus some headroom, and also need a negative supply of several volts. This inherantly limits the maximum power supply output voltage to an output that is several Volts below the maximum Opamp +/-rail voltages. The early 741 Opamps I believe had a maximum of 36V but in reality, could not be used reliably with this limit. Most older designs I know used +/-15V rails with these Opamps.

 

The H-P method

More modern supplies use another method using a separate auxiliary supply for the Opamps and they regulate from the supply ground level up or down. My other Power Supply that I designed several years ago uses that method. That  was actually invented by a company called Harrison that was specialising in Lab Supplies that was later purchased by H-P. The method eventually became known as the H-P method because they used it in many of their Lab Power supplies. This smart "trick" allowed engineers to build power supplies with much higher output voltages.

Applying this method to the PS503A would mean a significant demolition and reconstruction job that is beyond my plans for this supply.


Possible improvements to the PS503A

One of the items I would like to address is the over-voltage protection. The original over-voltage protection for the PS503A uses a Zener with an SCR to cut the output if it is above about 24V. That would be a catastropic failure condition.  In earlier versions, like the one I originally built, the SCR would actually short the raw supply rails with a small resistor to the common such that it would blow a fuse. That's pretty dramatic, and that method is called a crow-bar circuit. In latest version of the supply however, the SCR now cuts the drive to the output transistors, and will also discharge the output capacitor. This is a clever trick because it  protects the DUT in case the power transistors fail. 

There are several components that do not like a dramatic disappearance of one of the rails, it could actually damage the chip. So my plan is to see if I can couple the fault mechanism to both rails at the same time. However, after thinking some more about this, I did not persue that and will not add that for this prototype.

The other improvement I would like to add is a tracking overvoltage protection, that would remove the output if the actual output voltage level is only a Volt or so higer than the set voltage, to protect my precious circuits much earlier and at lower voltages, which is especially critical for 5V and below rail voltages.


Building a simple prototype

To better understand the circuitry and try some of the enhancements or changes, I built the positive supply section and the voltage reference section on protoboard. I did that in several steps to test them out before adding more complexity.

Here is the complete positive supply section, working and functional with some improvements already. It does not have the over voltage protection yet. That was to be added later.


What you see here on the left is the original voltage reference section with an alternative I want to use. Next to it the dual +/-10V references (for both supplies) followed by the voltage controller and the output section. The red test lead in the middle is connected to the output terminal, which is the right side of the green 0.6 Ohm current sense resistor. To the left of that are the two output transistors. On the top right edge of the first board you can also see a device on a carrier which is the new current source.

The circuit on the protoboard on the right is the current controller. The red LED is lit, because I adjusted the output current with my Dynamic Load and dialed in the tripping point of the Current Limiter, such that the supply is now in the Constant Current mode. The original PS503A uses a little incandescent light bulb (18V 26mA) to show an indication of the output level voltage. I changed that circuit slightly and now use a yellow LED, and you see that lit on the right hand side. More about that below.


Improvements

As a reference to what I did and will be doing, you can use the original schematic, published by Tektronix of the latest revision.
This can also be found here, when you look at the manual on the right hand side of the page. 

The quality of the picture is not great, because it is a scanned copy of the manual.
Here is the positive supply section I prototyped and will be addressing below:



The reference supply

While I was building and testing the prototype, I noticed a few items that I wanted to address. First of all, I found that the reference supply is not as stable or resistant to sudden temperature changes, although it uses the classic form of temperature compensation. The engineers used a common trick by using a diode (CR24) in series with a Zener (VR24) to counter the voltage change due to temperature. (one has a positive coefficient, and the other has a negative effect) However, that does not work well with sudden changes, like a draft. It also takes quite some time to warm-up to a stable reference voltage. When I used my DMM on the reference voltage and briefly blew some of my breath over it, the voltage jumped before it slowly normalized again.


Granted, this will not happen this drastic when everything is warmed-up and inside an enclosure.

But, it's also not as stable as I would like to have it (see below), and worse, the +33V supply for this circuit will vary with the output load as I describe later. The 33V rail voltage can drop to 24V with a maximum load. The REF01 voltage reference will be better suited for these changes, but I may want to add a small circuit to keep the voltage constant. I need to test that later. The voltage reference chip that the engineers at the time most likely didn't have access to, or it was deemed too expensive, or deemed to be too good for the intended applications for this supply. I will most likely make both options available on the PCB, if there is enough room. There is not so I dropped that circuit.

Here is the schematic (in KiCad) for the VRef and Tracking circuit. On the left in the box the original voltage reference circuit and in the smaller box the new one.



The Vref of 9V, or in my case 10V is fed to the two Opamps, in a configuration where one is a voltage follower with the same output as the input, U1, to provide +10V for the negative supply, and U2 that changes the polarity to a -10V reference voltage for the positive supply. Yes, you're reading this correctly,  it's not a mistake.
 
By flipping switch SW1, the fixed reference voltage is now made variable and that sets up the dual tracking feature. The two trimmers are used to calibrate the output of the supplies to the maximum output voltage, plus a bit of overhead room.

Here is the measurement that I took from the original reference voltage output.


This is after a warm-up period of about 15 minutes. It takes a very long time to settle. Note the span of 14.3mV over this 1hr period. This is not all together bad, but it also means that the output will swing with it, amplified by a factor of two. (10V reference amplified to get a 20V output)

The real test is to measure the output of the supply and include all components that could contribute.

Here is how that looks for a small snap-shot:


Not impressed with this, I used a REF01 10V reference chip to replace the original 9V reference, and this is the result measuring the output again:


The swings look much more dramatic, but the span is only 3.8mV, a 4x improvement and this was after a rather short warm-up with a reference that did not have a burn-in period yet.
These measurements need to be repeated with the circuits on a proper PCB and within an enclosure, but the result is good enough to include both as an option.

I also checked the line voltage regulation because the supply voltage changes from 33V down to 25V with the maximum load. The specification for the REF01 lists 60-100ppm/V but I see no change.

Lets have a look at the various other building blocks of this instrument.


The positive supply



This schematic already shows my latest changes in it, explained next.

When you look at this schematic, you have to realize that the +/-VDC rail, that is actually shown as +/-33V in the original, and the +/-27V rail are not constant values. They are only accurate when there is no load on the output. Both voltages will go down with increasing loads and can get as low as 25V! See the section about the transformer selection below for details. The +/- 27V rails were only added as a limit to protect the 741 Opamps, and provide a maximum, but the voltages will get below that value with higher output currents.

Please note that this is still under development so can easily change. I will do my best to update the schematics as I'm progressing, but don't use them yet to build your own, give me some time to complete it first. There is now a 2.7R resistor from the cathode of Q15 to GDN, and D29 is now a 1N5401, a 2A part instead of the 1A original.

The improvements I already made

The Opamps

Instead of one of the first available Opamps, the 741 Opamps that were used in the earlier generations, I selected the TLE2141 Opamps. Mainly because I have many of them, and they can stand a 44V supply maximum, which makes it more reliable than the originals that went kaduk quite often. Even so much so that lower (+/-27V) protection rails were added to the PS503 design, and even that did not stop all the failures. This could also be contributed to the fact that the early 741's were not that reliable stemming from earlier manufacturing processes. I could have use the TL071, but that also has a rather limited maximum supply voltage specification. As a minimum, during the prototyping phase, I will be using the more rail tolerant TLE2141. It also allows me to raise the +/-6V2 voltages to +/-8V by using regulators. I have some 36V uA741CP on order so I can try the more modern versions as well (with adjusted rails). There are modern versions of the 741 available that have a 44V rail maximum, but they were not available through my preferred sources.

When you use the relatively slow 741's, you dont need frequency compensation to prevent instability or oscillations. My plan is to test them with the first prototype.


The current source/bias for the diode OR and output transistor

This step is a pre-cursor requirement for increasing the supply voltage and is better because it removes the effect of the rail swings due to the load as well.

If you look at the original schematic, I replaced the bias setting resistor (R87) to the Base of the driving transistor Q14 from a 3K resistor to a 5mA Current Sink. This will make the diode OR circuit and Base current independent of the raw supply and the variable current flow when the output voltage is changed from the minimum to the maximum. In the 20V version, that point moves from 9V to about 25V, and hence the Base current changes for Q14.

The just about standard method is to use a current source and not a resistor. In my previous design for a power supply, I used a typical circuit to create a stable current source. 

Below is that circuit. It used a red LED as a rather stable voltage source to bias the PNP transistor Q2. The Emitter resistor R4 sets the current, R15 sets the LED current. The capacitor of 220uF was added as a startup glitch protection, because it delayed the bias setting until the other supplies where stable.

In that supply design, I used LED's as the diode OR because they were used on the front panel showing the CV or CC mode activity.


There are many other possibilities to create a current sink/source, but I opted to use a dedicated LTC chip (LT3092) and two resistors to precisely set the current. I already had two of them in my stash, waiting to be used. I tried it out and it works really well. By using the formula in the datasheet, I could easily select the resistor value for the 5 mA current I wanted. This is a little higher than the original current that varied between 1.7mA and 4.9mA using the resistor, but that is not very critical.


The Vref for the current limiter

Because I'm now using a different VRef circuit, I needed to change the Voltage reference for the current limit circuit. In the original, that voltage was tapped from the VRef circuit (connection between R28 and R29), and then fed through a diode (CR78) to the base of Q80. I simply adopted the circuit from the negative supply and used that for the positive supply as well. This adds R41, Q11 and R40 in my schematic.

I noticed that by changing the unregulated supply voltage, the collector voltage of Q3 supplying the CL potmeter is changing only a few mV between 33V (no load) and 25V (maximum load), keeping the voltage across the CL potmeter quite constant at 750mV for the 400mA output load setting, but needs to be checked again when I will go to a higher output voltage from 20V to 30V, or the full 1A current. It may need a voltage regulator or current sink.


The Voltage output indicator

Because I don't want to use a light bulb for the Voltage indicator (old school), I'm using an LED that many users of the PS503A had to change to as well because these tiny bulbs are now hard to get. I opted for a yellow LED, and that required a value change for two resistors, R14 from 5K6 to 15K and R15 from 510R to 160K in my schematic. Both values depend on the LED current, so may need some tweaking with different LED's. I'm simply using one that I already have, but is without specifications. In my case, the LED is just off with a zero Volt output and will be bright at 20V. When the output is switched off with SW2, the current from R15 is disconnected and the LED is off to show you that there is no output voltage present. Just like the original. When the overvoltage protection kicks in, the output goes to zero V and that also turns off the LED.


Decoupling the Opamps

I also added decoupling capacitors for the Opamp rails.


Sziklai output transistor pair

The last change, for the time being, is the change of the Sziklai output transistor pair. In the original, the power transistor was in the TMXXX mainframe and is not so easy to find. I selected a combination of the BD139 and the D45H11. I had a few left from my Walt Jung voltage regulator design, and if Walt found this transistor good enough, who am I to disagree? This selection may change however when I have a real setup that will allow me to do some power stress tests later on. 

If you want to know more about this Sziklai configuration and the difference or pro & cons compared with a Darlington pair, use Google.

There are two main differences that I care about. First of all the input voltage for the first transistor is 0.6V for the Sziklai and double that or 1.2V for the Darlington combo. The other difference is the thermal stability that is reportedly better with the Sziklai, and the two transistors do not need to be on the same heat sink, which was important for the original PS503A with the output transistor located in the TM5XX mainframe. The original TM5XX mainframes used the TO220 versions of the 3055 and 2955 transistors. More information about these transistors and replacements can be seen here.


Resistor value changes

Although I purchased all the required (odd) resistor values, I may change several of them to the E96 range. The reason Tek used these sometimes odd ball values, like 1K05 or 1K62 and 976 Ohm is that in those days, through-hole metal film 1% or better resistors only came in these values (not even in E192). 

The BOM will show some of the alternatives.


The over voltage protection

I waited to describe this circuit because I wanted to test and understand it first and also see if I could improve on it.
After adding the circuit to my prototype I finally figured it out. It turns out that I totally overlooked the presence and clever functionality of CR66 in that original circuit. (D29 below)
Let me explain it with this circuit section in the box.



D29 is now a higher current 1N5401.
The output voltage is tapped by R13 and the 24V Zener D28 that go to the Gate of the SCR. That voltage is filtered by C47, and R42 pulls the Gate low to avoid false triggers and provides the bias current for the Zener. 

So, if there is a voltage on the output that exceeds the Zener voltage, the Gate of the SCR gets pulled-up and is triggered. When that happens, the Anode of the SCR will be shorted to the Cathode at GND level, pulling the Bias of the diode OR also to GND and thereby removing the drive to the Base of Q14 and that in turn turns off the output transistor Q13. So far so good.

However there is also the 50uF output capacitor C2 that still dumps it's capacity into the DUT. With a short, this current can be many amperes, probably a lot more than you think. Keep that in mind. The Cathode of D29, which function I initially overlooked, gets pulled down and conducts and that shortens the output through D29 and the SCR to GND. Great solution, however, there is even more to it. 

In case the output transistors malfunction, like an E-C short of Q13 which will be the cause of the over voltage, they will no longer react to the removal of the Bias to the Base of Q14. Due to the circuit design, when there is no limiting drive from the diode OR, the output will automatically slam to the unregulated voltage level. In these cases, D19 will come to the rescue again and will also short the unregulated 33V rail to GND and that will blow the main fuse. 
 
So this clever D19 trick takes care of all possible overvoltage causes and protects the DUT. Hats off to the Tek engineers, I just didn't get it at first.

I added a 2R7 resistor to the cathode connection of the SCR to limit the shorting current a bit. This is also in the negative supply, so why not. 

The tracking overvoltage protection

Before I can start to work on a PCB layout, I wanted to investigate if I can make the over-voltage protection "tracking" so it will not just watch out for a serious overvoltage crisis at the output, but also protect against a certain voltage delta above the actual voltage setting when the voltage regulation fails.

This is especially important when you're dealing with low voltage devices, because the original over-voltage protection will only activate when a voltage in access of 24V is detected on the output. That could happen when there is a failure in the output section, the Sziklai pair as an example. Unfortunately, by the time the over-voltage protection is activated, your DUT could already have died from a voltage overdose.

The tracking over-voltage protection will activate when approx. 1..3V above the set voltage is detected, so when your working with 1V8, 3V3, or 5V devices, they will hopefully survive. 

Here is my current implementation in the lower box below for the moment:



I'm using U13 as a comparator to determine the tripping point. The output of the voltage regulator Opamp U7 is used as the reference voltage for U13. The output of U7 has almost the same voltage as the output, so varies between 0..20V. I'm also tapping the output terminal and drop that voltage by two diodes in series to create a delta between the output and the set voltage. C51 and R52 are there to provide a bias for the diodes and also a filter.

When experimenting with it, I noticed that the protection would activate with the voltage setting potmeter fully counter clockwise (0V). This was caused by the fact that the output of U7 was going slightly negative in that position, and that would trigger the comparator. Adding a small resistor (R58) in series with the voltage setting potmeter lifted the output to less than 100mV positive, and that solved that problem and still provided an over-voltage trigger. The value of this resistor will also depend on the Ohms range of the wiper of RV10 in the CCW position. It may become a calibration point later.

In the lower output voltage ranges, the overvoltage detection is about 1V higher than the reference and goes up to about 3V at the maximum output, which is a nice side-effect thanks to R52.

There is one caveat however. If your DUT has a sizeable capacitance or if you're using a battery, rapidly decreasing the output voltage could trip the overvoltage protection. You need to be aware of this, or you can install a switch to disable this circuit. Later testing with the completed instrument will verify the functionality some more and determine any required changes.

For the first prototype, I've added jumpers so I can disconnect this protection.


The negative supply

This supply is almost a mirror image of the positive supply.



Note that I copied the current limiter reference voltage circuit around Q10, D21 and Q4 and also use that on the positive supply, because I use a different main voltage reference. C18, on the Base of Q9 is not in the original circuit, but I've added it here too, just in case it is needed. D34 is now a 1N5401.

The overvoltage failure protection looks a bit weird. It fooled me. David Hess, an expert I got to know on the EEVblog and has several PS503A units, had this to say: 

"The cathode of the SCR is tied to the *negative* output via power diode D24 and the base of Q12, so the gate of SCR Q17 must be pulled *positive* relative to the negative output to trigger, which means the trigger current comes through D35 and R55 from ground, which is the positive part of the negative output." 
(I translated his Tek references to mine using the schematic above)

In order to test the overvoltage failure protection and the overvoltage tracking protection, I built the negative supply voltage controller on protoboard as well. It's on the lower protoboard.




I was pleasantly surprised that the design of the tracking overvoltage protection worked well right away for the negative supply as well, this does not happen very often (;-))

The Power rails

There are actually three different dual rail voltages in the original, the unregulated +/-33V, the "regulated" +/-27V (this is only an overvoltage protection for the Opamps above 27V, but this can drop to 25V depending on the load) and the regulated +/- 6V2. Regulated means simply set by a Zener diode. The original for the +/- 6V2 rails used large 750 Ohm 2W resistors and 6V2 Zener diodes, but I don't like that at all so I'm simply using +/-8V supplies during the prototyping.

During the prototype phase, I'm using PTC fuses, in the final version, I will test the functionality and if required, replace them by glass fast blow fuses to make the overvoltage failure detection work. The final value will be dictated by the maximum current output.

When I was doing the layout I found that there was little room to add frequency compensation components. To also allow the 741 Opamps, or your preferred favorites, I added LM317/337 TO-92 regulators for the +/-8V rails so they can be adjusted with just one resistor to any voltage you desire, or need for your Opamp selection. I will initially select a +/-6V rails to accomodate the uA741C versions I ordered.

Transformer selection challenges

I have now selected the main transformer and this is the process I used.

I have a nice shielded dual 24VAC version with 30VA that should have a current capability of 625mA per winding and I know it will fit in the enclosure. But, is the 24VAC sufficient? 

The TM5XX mainframes have two 25VAC windings per slot that supply 0.5A or 25VA for the normal compartments, and supply 1A or 50VA for the high power slot in the TM504 or even 1.2A or 60VA for the two high power slots in the TM506. The TM504 list the windings as 25VA or 50VA, but the schematic diagram for the TM506 shows all the windings as 24.8VAC. That's a bit reassuring.

With a transformer of dual 24VAC and 30VA we have enough power for an output of 20V and 500mA, but only about half of the 60VA that is needed for 1A outputs. That specification will need at least a 60VA transformer. I found and ordered a 25VAC 60VA one that will fit.

Increasing the output to 30V 1A will need as a minimum a dual 33VAC 80VA transformer and I have my doubts if that will fit in the enclosure I want to use. I need to look for a suitable transformer but for now, I have put the 30V output enhancement on hold. Another option is to limit the current to 500mA with 30V in which case a 33V 40VA transformer might work and might fit.

I need to make a decision soon on what I'm going to use because it dictates the PCB I'm going to design next.

So what are the effects of my 24VAC 30VA transformer?

I put together a prototype setup to test the parameters and already made some changes to the schematic..


What you see on the protoboard is the bridge, a bleeder resistor on the bottom, the main capacitor, a 1 Ohm series resistor, changed from the 2R2 resistor I wanted to use, and a 2,200uF for the second capacitor, replacing the 1,000uF I wanted to use. The 2R2 got too hot, and the 1 Ohm was sufficient. The increase in the second capacitor dropped the ripple quite substantially, also making up for the reduction in the resistor. The second capacitor and the 1R resistor might not be needed for the 500mA version, but I leave it in as an option for the 1A version.

While playing around, I created a spark even when the power was off, because without a load, the voltage will stay up for a long time. I experimented with a few different values (also in series) with SMD and THT resistors for this bleeder circuit and settled on using a 2W 3K3 resistor that did not get hot at 10mA. Note that the original PS503A does not have that bleeder at all. It may not be needed with the full circuit, it could drop the voltage fast enough by itself, time will tell, but during the prototyping it's a safety feature.

Here is what I measured on the output of this configuration using my Dynamic DC Load:

No load 33.7V
100mA 30.5V 300mV ripple
200mA 28.7V 360mV ripple
300mA 26.8V 410mV ripple
400mA 25.5V 470mV ripple
500mA 24.2V 520mV ripple
600mA 23.0V 560mV ripple.


What these measurements show is that the unregulated voltages seem to be too low to support the +/-27V rails, right? Well, this stumped me for a little while, but after some more thinking about this, it dawned on me. The +/-27V rails are only there to protect the old 741 Opamps from voltages above their limits. When these rails drop with the output current load, they still function fine, and as long as there is enough headroom, the supply will continue to function just fine. More modern 741 versions have a 44V maximum specification and with them you don't even need the 27V "overvoltage" clamping. I'm going to leave them in to allow more flexibility selecting Opamps. (741 variants come in 30, 36 and 44V ratings)

To have enough regulation headroom, the maximum current that is usable with my transformer is 500mA. 600mA is possible, but I'll keep the max at 500mA. Here is why.

When you're adjusting the Current Limit (CL) with a normal potmeter travel, it will be difficult to precisely set the tripping point in the 1A version. I'm going to borrow the high voltage feature from the original version, but move the switch to the front panel to manually set the current to 500mA or 1A using the same method. This will make the percentage setting of the CL potmeter more straight forward and is a lot safer for low current devices.

Supporting a 1A output

A preferred local supplier has a toroid transformer that has dual 25VAC windings supporting 1.6A, meaning it is an 80VA unit and should be even better than a TM506 high power compartment. With a size of 93.5 x 40mm it just fits in the enclosure. It's on order so I can test it out later.

Here is a picture of both transformers positioned in the enclosure to give an idea about the size.


To the right is the new 2x25VAC with 1.6A toroid with 80VA. It is significantly larger and weighs just over 1Kg. The one on the left weighs 532gr. The heatsink will have to be mounted on the outside of the back panel, if the back panel itself is not sufficient to have enough room for the PCB. I will use the room that the 80VA will leave as the size for the PCB.

The 80VA transformer produced the following results:
0 load 36.90V
250mA 34.7V 480mV ripple
500 mA 33.9V 570mV ripple
750 mA 31.5V 720mV ripple
1000 mA 30.2V 880mV ripple
1250 mA 28.3V 1.1V ripple
1500 mA 27.7V 1.3V ripple

The higher voltages will have to be accommodated for all circuits that use that rail.
 
This transformer will be sufficient for a 20V output at 1.5A, 30V output at 500mA and also 25V at 1A.

This transformer is a bit overkill for what I want so I will continue with the 30VA transformer, which will be limiting the output to 20V with 500mA.

Power rail schematic

Below is the updated Power Rail schematic for the 30VA transformer. If you select another transformer, only the fuses need to be replaced by higher ratings, but the circuit will also support higher currents and voltages. 

We now know that the  +/-33V labels are there to show the voltages with no load, and the same counts for the +/-27V "clamping" rails. The +/-8V rails are unaffected by the load. When making the layout, and while considering to use the original 741 Opamps, I decided to use LM317/337 adjustable regulators so we're not fixed by the little too high 8V rails.



I added a second main filter capacitor of 2,200uF separated by a small 1 Ohm series resistor to better filter the unregulated raw rail voltages. This will become more important when optionally, the output will be increased to a 1A current and/or at the maximum output 25V or even 30V. If that is the case, the 2.200uF should be replaced by another 4.700uF to keep the ripple low. The higher voltages will create larger currents for Q7 and Q8 and you may want to change the resistor values of R209 and R31 to keep the current for the Zener diodes in check.

The circuit around Q5 and Q6 is a startup protection circuit to make sure everything powers-up correctly and at the same time. It also functions as further protection if one of unregulated rails develop a fault. This is something I need to verify myself. It's not on the protoboards.


The transistors used in the +/- 27V rails may change once I know the total current consumption, which is unknown to me at the moment.

Note that there are several different GND symbols used in the circuits indicated by a number. Eventually, they all come together at the Common output connection, but are kept separate from each other to create a "Star" GND. You can easily see that when you study the PCB pictures on the Wiki site.


The Voltmeter



This circuit is quite simple but in order to switch the display voltmeter inputs around so we can measure the positive and the negative supplies, the power rails for the meter have to be galvanically isolated from the rest of the circuits, hence the small additional transformer. The minus input from the voltmeter is internally connected to the minus supply voltage of the meter/display, so that's why this is needed.

As a change from the earlier design, I now switched to an even smaller transformer, used a full bridge and deleted the 8V regulator. This is what I used in the earlier supply and worked well.

Next steps

Now that I have the inner workings understood (at least I think so), and verified most of the enhancements with the prototypes, I think I'm ready now with a first attempt on designing a PCB. With that comes all the sorting out of the components and footprints, so that will take some time.

I have the layout of the main board done and I'm now working on the front panel which will be a PCB as well. The layout of the controls on the rather busy front panel required a few changes to the main PCB, so I'm going back and forth to make sure it all fits the first time. I hope...

There are also some changes to the circuits and I will post the latest schematic diagrams, and screen shots of the PCB's below.

Here is the completed layout of the PCB.



I'm using TO-92 packages for the transistors so I can easily swap them out for other types if required. When that is done I could switch them out with SMD versions with a new board revision.

And here is a 3D view of the front panel - note that it will have a black solder mask:



There is a ground fill on the front and back to act as a shield and will also add some sturdiness and produce a very nice half-matt black finish. All the holes are plated through with a larger surface on the back to properly ground all potmeters and switches. The four LED's have a normal 3mm hole. I decided to not implement a LED indicating the low current setting (300mA). It's obvious from the switch setting, and the front panel is already very busy.

Another thing you may miss is the switch to activate the dual tracking feature. I found an original potmeter with the switch at a site that sells Tektronix parts, and I purchased one. Not having a switch is not that cumbersome, because you can turn the potmeter fully CW (fully up in the diagram) to the 100% setting, and that will actually be the same as using the switch.

Here are the latest schematic diagrams with the latest changes. The updated Voltmeter section is just above.


Not many changes, but I did ad a jumper to deactivate the tracking overvoltage circuit in both supplies.




I'm now using LM317/337 adjustable regulators instead of the fixed +/- 8V ones, to have more flexibility selecting Opamps, in particular the 36V uA741C's.


At first I had room on the PCB to implement the original reference circuit, but I found out that I needed more room close to the front panel for the current potmeters. Eliminating that board space made it too cumbersome to move that circuit someplace else, now that the rest of the layout was already done, so I took it out.


Mechanical construction

Below is the old front panel that will be replaced by the new PCB. The paper copy shows the dimensions of the main PCB inside the enclosure, with now plenty of room for the potmeters and the three 4mm binding posts in the front.

The bottom side of the board with the bridges and output transistors, will be mounted flush on the metal back panel for cooling. To the right is room for the mains input receptacle and filter. The main transformer will be mounted on the top half of the enclosure, hanging down so to speak. If the cooling of the back panel alone is not sufficient, I will add a heatsink mounted to the back panel on the outside of the enclosure. At least that is the plan.

Since making this picture, I made a few more layout changes by moving the reservoir capacitors on the right side towards the edge of the board, now possible because I used a smaller transformer for the LCD display.


The two boards are now uploaded to my sponsor PCBWay, and I hope they will accept to sponsor this project as usual. They did, so the two boards are now in production. As soon as I have the boards, I will continue with the project.


The boards arrived in record time (less than a week) and look great as usual.

It took a little to find some free time, but they are now almost completely populated.


I'm still waiting for a few missing parts, but I'm almost ready to start testing.

The front panel in the background is also mostly done.

Here is the back side of the front panel with the wire harness. 



Most of it is in position, although not secured in place yet. I need to verify the proper switch settings with the front panel text, and may need to rotate the switches and also the potmeters so the contacts are out of the way.

The tracking potmeter and the two current limiter potmeters are not installed yet because I needed to glue the four LED's in place and needed the room. I also need to solder the wire harness to the LED's before I can mount the three missing potmeters. I also need to wire the pos-neg switch to the display and output terminals. All these wire connections will be on the back of the panel. The main switch will be wired last.

It's a very busy looking back panel with a very tight fit and not much wiggle room left.


Another improvement?

While waiting for the PCB's, I looked at a way to replace the two rail fuses (F1, F2) by something else. During the prototyping phase, I will be using PTC fuses, but they are pretty slow to react. Glass fuses will be much faster but are destructive, you have to open the unit to replace them. I'm now looking into using MOSFET's that will be driven by the two fault conditions. They are much faster, and are non-destructive. I prototyped part of this circuit, and it works really well.

As soon as I have the prototype working on the new PCB I will experiment some more with that possibility.


IMPORTANT

Just when I started to test the first signs of life, a company that contacted me recently contracted me  to do some design work for them, based on another one of my projects. They are in a hurry, so this project will be on the back-burner until I have the time available again. It could take several weeks if not months.


Keep coming back regularly, I will be adding or changing information as I go about designing the rest of the project.

More later....


Github project repository

There will be a dedicated Github project when I have finished the design, that will have all the information you need to build one yourself and I will also enter the project in the Shared Project section of my sponsor PCBWay.


Friday, September 15, 2017

DIY build of a Tektronix SG502 Sinewave Generator

Because I sold all of my Tektronix gear, I was a bit sad to loose three particular instruments.
One was the DIY 5CT Curve Tracer with my readout modifications that was already covered in another post, the 5A22N Differential Amplifier, and the SG502 Sinewave Generator.


When I was at Tek, I build several instruments from parts, the SG502 being one of them.



I really liked the SG502, for its simplicity using analog(!) discrete parts only, and the overall specifications that made it perfect for most if not all of my applications. This instrument covers the frequency range from <5Hz to >500KH and has a pretty good distortion performance with only 0.0035% THD between 20Hz and 50Khz. The output is 5V RMS open circuit or 2.5V RMS into 50 Ohm. It also has a good step attenuation ranging from 0-70dB. Finally, it has a 5Vp-p square wave output that can also function as a trigger out.

The reason I seldom used it over the last years was that it comes as a TM500 plugin, and that uses a lot of real estate. The TM500 series are very deep, and they are heavy. I don't have room for them on my desk or counter anymore, so eventually I cut the umbilical cord and sold everything I had from Tek. Well, not really everything (sorry Raymond). I kept a few goodies.

I also have the so called Victor Mickevich Ultra Low Distortion 1kHz sinewave generator with a reported 0.00001% THD for special measurements (also described in another post: simple-but-precisice-1khz-distortion-tool), and I recently purchased the FeelTech FY6600S-30 14 bit DDS. That instrument is a Dual Channel Function/Arbitrary Waveform Generator, very versatile, but, it's digital...

If you consider building one, the SG502 has a few critical or rather special (unobtanium) parts. One is the dual N J-FET (Tek p/n 151-1054-00 or the 2N3958), used for the input differential amplification, another J-FET (Tek pn/ 151-1021-00 or the FN815) used in the AGC, and then the precision dual 10K tracking pot and satellite adjustment contraption, used to set the frequency. Less critical is the matched capacitor set (10uF, 1uF, 0.1uF 0.01uF and 0.001uF). They are used in the bridged T notch filter in a rather clever dual purpose way. The last rather special item is the SG3501D (156-0208-00) IC that is the center of the dual tracking +/- 20V power supply. I recently found that this IC died in my SG502, but I was able to order replacements on flea-bay.

I happened to have all these items as "spare" parts, and kept them since the early 70's, waiting to be used again. I did not have the special matched set of timing capacitors, but individual ones and testing revealed that they were so close and precise that they didn't need any further matching or adjusting.

Just to kinda take care of my guilt in letting my trusted and self build Tek gear go, I decided to rebuild the SG502, but in a much smaller enclosure. I use the TEKO KL22 enclosure in black/aluminum a lot for my projects. They cost less than 15 Euros, and have just the right size for most of my projects. I used them already for my three power supplies, my DC load, and now my SG502.

I first dabbled with the idea to upgrade the design with modern OpAmps and see if I could improve on the specifications. After thinking about this for a while, I decided not to. I could have build the SG505, Tek's own upgrade to the SG502 which uses OpAmps, but in my opinion, this classic should stay the way it was designed by Steve Stanger in the early 70's. Period! 

BTW, the PG505 has been described as a real masterpiece of analog design wizardry. The instrument was designed by Bruce Hofer who now is at Audio Precision, and is a true analog design genius. So, my statement "I could have built the SG505", must be taken with a handful grains of salt. It will not be easy to replicate that instrument. (well, it's now 2025 and that's exactly what I'm going to try)

In contrast, rebuilding the SG502 instrument turned out to be rather simple. If you follow some common sense design and layout rules, anybody with a little above average skills can do it. If you can't get your hands on the critical parts, you could try to find an SG502 unit on flea bay or on one of those surplus markets where they sell old electronics. Sometimes these SG's can be bought for less than 20 Euro's. Because all components are THT, it's real easy to harvest and use the most critical parts.

I'm not going to cover the design, you can find the Tektronix Instruction Manual online, here.  It has everything you ever wanted to know about this instrument. One thing you should note is that Tek made some important changes to the original design (especially the ACG, the voltage supply and the output attenuation circuit), and I used the latest available Change Reference (M34075 from 1-19-79) in my redesign. 

Just recently, I found a note from Bruce Hofer, the designer of the SG505 with some additional low distortion modifications that will reduce the distortion to well under 0.002%. Modifications
I have not yet added these modifications myself.

One of the challenges is to get or replace the S50 push button switch set for the frequency selection and also the S160 push buttons used for the output attenuation. I used the same technique again that I already used for my DIY 5CT, and that is by using (reed) relays to do the switching. This will allow you to use inexpensive single deck rotary switches, in combination with diode matrices if required.

Here is the schematic of the range switching for the frequency selection:


Here is the schematic for the AGC damping (top) and the output attenuation:


After completing the unit, and testing it, I noticed a "design flaw" in my output attenuation switching design. When you switch between especially the higher attenuation settings, there is a short moment in-between the "clicks" that the output goes back to full scale. I need to add a delay to the relay fall-off times, to create the equivalent of a make-before-break action, change the rotary switch to make-before-break, or add a master output relays contact that prevents glitches to the DUT in-between setting changes.

I also redesigned the power supply somewhat. Normally, the SG502 uses the big transformer, diode bridge, electrolyte smoothing capacitors and the power transistors from the TM50X mainframe. I measured that the original SG502 uses about 70 mA on each 20V supply rail, so I could get away with a much simpler design.

First of all, I am a big fan of not putting mains transformers into the measurement enclosures. It keeps the hum out, and you don't have to deal with the bulky transformers, the main switch, filter, bridge etc. It allows me to use smaller enclosures, and put the transformer and the needed other stuff in a separate box that I can put someplace out of sight or away from my precious desk or bench space. Another benefit is that I can get multiple usages out of these transformers/supplies boxes.

Here is a photo of the 24-0-24V AC 160mA transformer box :



I didn't produce a schematic for the supply, so let me describe what I did. In the enclosure above, I put a 24-0-24VAC 160mA PCB transformer. I put a dual pole switch, a fuse and a neon indicator lamp on the primary side. On the secondary side, I connected the 24-0-24 AC outputs to 4mm binding posts.

Because the current demands are so small, I put the rectifier (1N4002) diodes directly on the 4 mm binding posts in the SG enclosure and also mounted the two smoothing caps (1000uF/50V) Manhatten style on them. On a little circuit board, I mounted the power section directly from the SG502 manual, and used two smallish power transistors that I had for the series transistors. I selected the voltage setting resistor (R348) to get as close as possible to the +/- 20V DC. Tek also hand selects this resistor, and I ended up with a value of 14K7, probably due to the fact that I used different power transistors.

To drive the two sets of (reed) relays, I wanted to balance the transformer and rectification loads a little, so I used an LM317/LM337 pair with 270 and 820 Ohm resistors to get + and - 5V rails. The +5V section is used to drive all the reed relays for the frequency selection and AGC dampening, and the -5V drives the 3 output attenuation relays. The grounds of both the 5V supplies are not connected to the analog ground on the analog circuit boards.

Here is a photo of the power board:


The left section on the board deals with the +/-5V and the right side with the +/-20V. I just happened to have the SG3501D chip, otherwise I could have used another set of LM317/337 to obtain the +/- 20V supplies. With these  more modern components, I really don't believe the supplies need to be tracking, because the LM317/337 are stable  and good enough.


The oscillator section is mounted on the main board, and looks like this:

Top left is the AGC damping section with 5 reed relays. On the right half is the frequency selection with the two sets of 5 reed relays. The large 10uF precision capacitor is mounted on top of the 1uF and 0.1uF capacitors to save some space. On this picture, the two output transistors(Q82 and Q83) are still the (isolating plastic!) 2N3904 and the 2N3906, they have been replaced by the 2N2222 and the 2N2907 metal can transistors after I was happy with the performance and took the picture. (Watch out for the different pin-out between these transistor types, as I forgot myself (;-o) )


I'm showing the backside with the rats nest, because it's a testament to the quality of the original design that I could stay well within the specifications without using a properly laid out PCB.

The output amplifiers for the sine wave and the output attenuation, in addition to the square wave generation and amplifier are on a separate board.


This board will be mounted through the output level potmeter to the front panel, and also on a stud to the main board.

The rest is mounted directly on the front panel:
The open hole on the left is for the output potmeter, and the hole on the right for the power LED.


To the left is the 5 position  rotary switch for the frequency multiplier then the special potmeter with the fine adjustment hardware contraption, and to the right the 8 position rotary switch with the diode matrix for the output attenuation (0 to -70dB in -10dB steps).

Together it looks a little bit cramped, but it fits easily.


The cool ribs you see on right at the outside of the back are not needed. I just stumbled on this old adhesive CPU cooler, and added it to the back initially, just in case.


And here is the front panel in detail:



I typically make a design of the front panel in PowerPoint, together with the drill map. I print the design on a color printer, using the best photo paper I can find, and in the highest resolution and best color quality.
I use double sided tape to secure the front panel and use a very sharp knife to cut the holes, I then carefully, without twisting the front layer of the paper, mount the hardware. Note that I try to use the same color scheme Tek used in the 70's. I really like it and use that for all my designs.


And here is the final unit.

While I was building the various sections, I was checking and verifying the results. When I was at Tek, I used to repair these instruments and I was amazed how well the original design worked, even with my modifications and wire nests and felt proud to have been part of this bit of T&M history. In retrospect, I'm glad I started on this project.

Using the procedure in the Instruction Manual, I verified everything as good as I could. I don't have a distortion analyzer or dedicated spectrum analyzer so I can't specify the distortion level. I used the FFT capability of my Rigol DS2302A scope, and that looked very good.

A small bit of info:
I went from using Tek equipment to a Rigol scope. Well, you probably didn't know this, but the Rigol subsidiary for the America's is located in Lake Oswego, which is only a few minutes from Beaverton, the home of Tek. You wonder why Rigol picked this location? (;-))

At a later date I will try to do a comparison with my Mickevic oscillator, my active double-T notchfilter together with an external sound card and my PC based analyzer software.

Everything else, except the rise/fall times for the square wave (>50nSec instead of <50)  is well within specification. I have not investigated this edge issue yet, for me it's good enough.

I did tweak the capacitor for the 50-500kHz range to match the other ranges. The 100Khz signal is the most critical, so I went back and force a few times to adjust the value of C55 the timing capacitor so when I switch ranges, the frequency setting is well within the specification. The original C565 value is 87pF, I ended up with 92pF.

What that means is that when I set the frequency setting to the (reference) 100.0MHz in the X100K setting, and switch to the X10K setting, the frequency is 10.17kHz, in the X1K setting 1.03kHz, in the X100 setting 101.7Hz and in the X10 setting 10.2Hz. That is excellent I think.

One caveat, and you may have already missed it. I don't have room for the frequency dial. First of all, I don't have one in the first place, but because I normally attach my scope anyway, it has a digital read out of the frequency setting, so I don't need the dial.

Even though I did not have the calculated precision resistors for the attenuation switch, I got really close by getting the closest E96 resistor value or selected a couple, and again, I was able to stay well within the specification.
If you're interested why Tek used these funny resistor value: have a look here :
matching-t-attenuator-calculator (use the 600 Ohm input/output setting and you'll see that the values match exactly to those that the Tek designers probably calculated with a slide ruler (;-))

One thing I need to do still, is to order copper sheet metal and use that on the inside of the (plastic) enclosure. Whenever I use my T12 solder iron, the high frequency pulses from the heater come right through. That's not just this unit alone though, but I want to create an extra barrier for this one.

All in all, I am mightily impressed with the design quality the Tek engineers at the time were able to pull off in the 70's. Rebuilding this unit and staying well within the original specification is again a testament to their skills. Hats off!

UPDATE 22-11-2017

After a lot of issues, I was finally able to create a vastly improved setup to measure FFT's, so I can now present the THD distortion number. A measured THD of 0.026% is even better than the specification for the original, which is 0.035% for the 20Hz to 50KHz range.
Here is the screenshot:


Enjoy!

If you like what you see, please support me by buying me a coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/M9ouLVXBdw